Originally Posted by
p2templin
I'm still awaiting your explanation of WHY one needs to consult the chart.
If you want even tension, wouldn't you see even deflection? Why would matter WHAT tension you have, as long as the tension was even?
Tension matters because a wheel has to be within a range of tension to work properly and last. Too loose and it doesn't tend to hold up well. Too tight and the rims will stress crack, or with light spokes they could be too close to their elastic limits.
Note, That I said a range of tension. That's because IMO absolute tension isn't super critical, and tightest isn't best. Years ago the range of tension was pretty broad, and anybody's fingers could be calibrated accurately enough.
These days however, rear wheels will often have left side tension of about 60% of right side tension. That narrows the working tension to a narrow zone between what will be too loose on the left and too tight on the right, or often both at the same time.
That's where the tension meter is used,
to check that the final product is within what I consider the proper tension range. Obviously to do that I need the chart to convert the readings to kpf.
As you and I agree, you don't need a chart if all you're going to do is compare spoke to spoke, and try to match the values for even tension. But I never do that anyway, because I consider it pointless.