From a structural standpoint radial right, and tangent (3x) left improves the bracing angle symmetry. However that means that drive torque has to traverse the shell and that's not good with many if not most hubs. So I usually stick with symmetrical patterns, but I use lighter spokes on the left in proportion to the difference in predicted tension between both sides. I've been doing this for almost 40 years with good success and is about as fancy as I get except for special purpose wheels.

If I could find ones to my liking, I'd build my wheels using Hi-Lo flanges to improve torque transfer ans widen the bracing angle on the right, especially for touring wheels, but these days it's hard to even find nice high flange hubs.

If you're a new builder, focus on execution, learning to quickly build tight, true evenly tensioned wheels, with a minimum of fuss. Think of wheelbuilding like baking bread, if you overwork the dough, you get lousy bread. Then when you're good, you can get fancy.