For bronze brazing vs silver, you don't need nearly as much flux- aside from the fact that you're using the wrong flux.
In watching the video I see two major problem areas.
One- the tip is too large for the intended job. That's enough tip for 1/4"+ thick stock.
Two- the filler rod is too large. When you get the tubes to temp and start to add filler, the rod is so large it won't start to flow until everything else is way over-temp.
With a tip this big you can't concentrate the heat well enough. And... if you cut back (soften) the flame with a tip this big it's too slow to heat and by the time you have the material up to temp, you have the heat spread to where it doesn't need to be- then you need to melt the filler. Arrgh! Also, a flame that's "too" soft for the tip size will have a tendency to blow out if you get a "pop" from the flux, slag, filler rod too close to the cone, etc.
In the video... when you see the first sign of pink, it's time to get the filler rod in there so it can get to flowing temperature, before the material to be joined is too hot. We're brazing here, not fusion welding.
It looks like you have 3/32 rod. Try some 1/16. This is thinwall tube and thicker rod is not required, mainly because it takes too much heat to keep it flowing.
You should be able to control the heat well enough that the "pink" doesn't spread more than 1/4" on either side of the joint. A smaller tip will allow you to get the material up to temp quickly, lay down the filler and get out. It takes a bit of practice to know what flame a given tip size will support, and what's ideal for the project at hand. Then there's tip control, and dabbing in the filler. With bronze brazing you can actually form a "bead" and have good adhesion (not penetration- it's not fusion welding.)
Flux- I've never been a fan of "too much" flux. You only need as much as you need. Beside the fluxes being different for silver and bronze, bronze brazing doesn't require anywhere near the amount you'd use for silver. For silver the flux serves as a temperature indicator as well as a means for preventing contaminents. Not so for bronze. You watch the base metal with bronze, not the flux. With silver if you get the material to the same temp you'd use for bronze.- it's TOO hot!
My method works well for me- Clean the tubes well, inside and out. I don't obsess- just get it clean. Make a paste out of some powdered flux and paint it up inside the tube. It doesn't take much and you don't need to go deeper than a 1/2 inch or so. This allows for a decent internal fillet with good adhesion. For the outside I dip the hot rod in the dry powder flux. Works like a champ.
One other thing- get the proper lenses for you goggles/shield. Being able to see the color change is important to good brazing. Most peoples lenses are too dark, and before you know it, it's TOO hot.
I don't know which welding supply you are using over there in Bend. Isn't there a United WS over there? If so, try them, and if you can't get the right answer, have them call over to the United store on MLK here in Portland and talk to Kyle.
If you haven't already, mosey on over to the "Framebuilderscollective" website. Check out Cococino cycles blog and Dave Kirk's "fillet brazing" tutorial. There's some tips there, then all you need is practice.
Sorry for the length, but this subject is not easily dealt with in text.