once you have decided on the rear hub and cog. you need to measure from the center of the cog to the inside edge of the dropout while the hub is mounted then subtract that from half of the rear dropout width, which you have already stated is 130mm. so half of which is 65mm. that will be your required chainline.

the hard part is finding out how far the center of your chainring will be from the centerline of the bb when the chainring is mounted on the crank and the crank is mounted on the bb. spindles are a tapered fit on most track cranks and they push on to the taper various amounts before bottoming out depending on the standard used during manufacture.

some adjusting is possible when mounted the chainring. washers can be used to adjust the chainline further out. as well as using spacers when mounting the BB. sometimes spacers on the BB can be used on either side to adjust both inward and outward.

life can get complicated when straying even a little bit from a true track frame and wheels/hubs/crank, but your efforts will be rewarded for insisting on an accurate chainline!

after doing this a number of times on my five singlespeeds using various frames and dropouts and dropout widths, i have settled on using a shimano hyperglide freehub with a single cog and plastic spacers. i can get a very accurate chainline using almost any road or mtb square taper crank.