The Phil hubs don't allow even a thin remover in with most freewheels.

To get the axle end cap out of there, you'll want to poke it out from the other side, using a steel rod thru the hole in the non-drive-side end cap.

The rod should be minimally 5mm or 3/16" and you'll have to strike it with a hammer after getting it to snag on the drive-side cap to either side of the hole.

Putting the cap back on, it's best to use LocTite, to avoid a loose-feeling axle assembly. Just compress the whole assembly until the cap bottoms against the bearing, but force should only be applied from the two ends of the axle and no force should go through the bearings to the hub shell since these bearings can't take much side-loading (likely you already know this, but I'm throwing it in for anybody else tempted to mess with the older steel-body Phil hubs).

I tried to get an aluminum Campag freewheel off yesterday, but the O.D. of the 2 prongs on the Suntour is too large. Dang.

As for the JPR posts, at 200grams impressively light! Nice, thinwall casting.
But the superlight stuff from France back then, like AVA stems and bars, seems made for a lighter rider than would be found in America today. The 5mm bolts, in particular, were failure-prone on Avocets posts.
But I was pretty happy to just find another 23.8 alloy post, and, at little under 160, I probably won't ever break it.