Put the non-drive crank back on. Leave the bolt loose on the crank that's stuck. Grind up a hill carefully in too high a gear -- without the bolt keeping it in place, the soft aluminum crank will quickly squirm loose on the steel taper. Quickly enough that you need to be careful or you'll lose your teeth on the handlebars. I've never had a stuck crank that took more than maybe 20 hard pedal strokes to work loose when the bolt is backed off, your mileage may vary depending on how hard you're pedaling.

Note this ruins the crank taper, it will never install securely again.

If you want to save a valuable crank in this situation, I use a piloted bottoming tap to enlarge the threads to 23mm puller threads, the larger size on the side of the crank puller you never use unless you have old TA cranks.