Those torque specs in the "easy to assemble" consumer-level instructions are just there for the lawyers; experienced feel works fine for torquing fasteners on anything bike-related that isn't carbon or low spoke count.

When you look at at a fastener, try to imagine how much force it'd take to strip the threads, and don't use more than half of that, or maybe 75% in a pinch. The only fasteners that need to be really tight are rear wheel nuts/skewers on bikes with horizontal dropouts, and perhaps the bar clamp bolt on single-bolt stems. Then a whole bunch of other things need to be pretty tight, like pedals, all locknuts except the ones on barrel adjusters, seatpost, stem and brake cable clamp bolts, and I think most everything else just needs to be tight.

Just try to imagine how much the threads can take as you're tightening, while also considering how tight it needs to be. I'm not sure to what extent consideration can be a substitute for experience, but I do know that it can. Just keep your brain in gear.