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Old 04-25-12 | 09:11 PM
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Andrew R Stewart
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Rochester, NY

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Painting a frame is easy. Doing a nice looking and durable job is A LOT more involved. As a start any paint you can use (given that you have to ask and don't do painting already) won't be as durable as the factory job. Step one is removing the original paint. You can mechanically remove or chemically. On the large smooth sections (the majority of the tube) you can sand or scrape off paint pretty quickly. Around the joints/welds you'd want to bead blast or use chemicals. Depending on the factory paint the common StripEze might not be aggressive enough, aircraft stripper is stronger but more $. Once you have the paint off then if you repaint you need to prep the surface. That's both making the surface smooth (file marks, scrapes, dings, nicks. Since this is an Alu frame stress risers are of paticular concerns), clean of grime and oils, etching it to allow the primer to get a good "bite" then primimg. Alu likes it's own primer as does many paints. make sure that the primer is compatible with both. Then you apply the actual color coats. Maybe sanding between primer or color coats to smoothen out things, like runs. Decals come next with a clear series of coats last. Then let the paint cure, heat helps to a point.


This is a messy and time consuming job to do even with rattle cans. And retail bought paint is pretty fragile. You might be better served by finding a painting service to do this. Places that do motorcycles, ATVs or indrustral equipment are where i'd look first. Auto painters rearly do good and motivated bike work. You'll find that powder coating is cheaper and usually cruder looking. Many powder coaters don't bother with primers or undercoats so do your homework here. Quality wet paint using the proper primers, colors and clears with good preperation steps is expensive, for a reason.

Leaving the Alu raw looks cool for a while but the surface will show corrosion in time. Sweat and road spray will dot it. You could have it anodized but the welds will take the process differently then the tubes.

Consider if this bike is worth this. If not then a quick and light sanding to not remove but etch the original paint (and sand through the decals removing their presence) then painting over that might be the easiest and still retaining the stock protection. Andy.
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