Ah, the stem-measurement blues! It's hard to believe, but Cinelli (and certain other stems from certain manufacturers, including Dura-Ace and a few other higher-end Japanese) stems are measured Center of bar to center of quill, measured across the top!
The "top" measurement, as opposed to a "center-to-center, on-center" measurement, puts a bigger number on the stem. I.E., a Cinelli or Dura-Ace stem that is stamped/labeled as 110mm is actually closer to 105mm.
The polished/anodized older Nitto stem on my holdsworth is stamped 110, but actually measures only 106mm.
Most stems are measured center-to-center, on-center however.
My take on this is that the "on-center" measurement method is applied as a "drawing board" measurement, while the "across the top" measurement is intended as "measured in the field" and thus intended for racing service where riders and coaches need to be able to do these measurements themselves, there being nothing particularly precise about having to self-measure from C-C, on center.
I have found myself re-visiting this issue over the years, often wondering wich stems are measured by which method, and have used good fixturing to make the measurements.
Yet another oddity, Dura-Ace stems, made by Nitto, the ones with the "aero" closed clamp, are labeled 26.0 diameter, but readily accept the 26.4mm bars made by Cinelli and Ambrosio. It's actually a much better fit!
And I could also go off on how the amount of undersizing of quill diameter varies so much from brand to brand.
As an example, a recently-introduced Taiwan-made stem of declared "French" diameter sizes the quill at only 24.8mm, a large concession to seemingly over-stated "tolerances" of steerer I.D.
I always prefer motion-free attachment of handlebar and stem, and get the least slop from Japanese quill stems filed-to-fit into a particular French steerer. It's almost like the French 22.0 steerer I.D. was designed for custom-fitting and using different brands of stems makes a big difference in the amount of metal to be removed and can take nearly an hour in some cases with typical files.
The $10 caliper is truly money well spent. I actually bought two of the back when the price had just come down to $20, and afer some tens of thousands of measurements, the first one can still make precise and accurate measurements and the battery even lasts a good couple of years.
Measuring everything from bolts, shims, washers, spokes, bars, stems, steerers, crown races, posts, rims (width and ERD determination), tires, bearings, cables, housings, frame tubing, chain width and even chain wear, it's the best tool investment ever.
Different tire sizes came along at different times and in different countries. It is a long story to say the least!
About that rear hub, I can only guess that perhaps one of the balls got displaced from it's proper path, and is not properly contained between cup and cone. Remonds me of finding a headset ball bearing trapped between steerer and head tube, the headset not possible to adjust in that case. I can't really imaging getting too many balls in a rear hub race, it would be way too obvious!