Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 9,813
Likes: 1,790
From: Northern California
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
Maybe the tight hub bearings were from the axle rotating while the axle nuts were tightened, that is if it doesn't have a quick-release. Oiled nut threads helps here.
The freehub axle should have been fully removed for a couple of reasons:
Firstly, the drive-side cone may have caused tightness because it rotated with the hubshell and bearings, away from it's locknut. It now would need to be secured tightly against it's locknut to prevent this happening again since you've adjusted it.
Another reason to remove the axle is to check for a cracked ball or bearing cup, both of which are likely when a bearing goes tight like that. The forces were very high!
"I thought the 23.8 clamp size of the lever fit everything? These wouldn't tighten down enough. I had to jimmy with elec tape. Am I wrong? Is there any part of the bike the French didn't make difficult?"
Your bars are smaller diameter not because they are French.
Most steel handlebars are 22.2mm diameter, as on a non-road bike.
The brake levers on road bikes with 22.2mm steel bars will have special clamp bands, usually with stamped size markings.
Tightening levers onto non-metal shims often causes frequent loosening.
Cloth tape would hold up longer than electrical tape though.
Last edited by dddd; 04-30-12 at 03:34 AM.