bigfred 

Unfortunately, finding the "right" saddle is something that can take more than one try. Some folks are lucky and can cycle forever on any old slab of wood you perch them on. Others of us, are not so fortunate. My first piece of advice is to NOT take groin pain lightly. I have a friend who is impotent due to ignoring discomfort and numbness "down there". Do what you can to find different saddles to try. Ask at your LBS if they have a box of "take offs" that you could work through to find something more suited to you. As for <$65, craigslist and fleabay are your friend.


Yes, I do the occassional spin class, as does Mrs. Fred. Again, don't ignore pain or discomfort. But, if you're comfortable cycling on the road, there isn't any reason why a "spin" bike should cause you pain. Check to make sure you've got your saddle correctly adjusted. Both vetically and laterally. If you're using straps on the spin bike, you're foot may not have been aligned properly. That could definately cause discomfort in short order. Don't try to push(mash) a too big gear.


I didn't realize you were riding without any form of shoe retention. I take back most of what I've said about spinning and cadence. Most of it doesn't apply if you're using platform pedals and sneakers. If you're trying to ride with sneakers on those R540's the situation would be even less stable. Secondly, the "scrape and lift" drills are not something you do "while" trying to achieve high cadence. They are something you use to help train your muscles into spinning a complete circle, so that you have good technique and form when you "do" try to achieve high cadence. Without good form, high cadence looks like a sewing machine.

Yes, clipless pedals would definately help with trying to achieve some of what you hear us talking about. Just out of curiousity, on this mornings ride, I spun up a light gear on the waterfront(flat) and achieved 130 without losing much form. That's with 180mm cranks that supposedly limit your spinning ability. I know I've gone 170+rpm on the trainer and suspect that if I want to work on it, I could increase that on road cadence by a fair bit. But, really, cadences that high are most useful for sprinting. Which I don't have much need of.


Mate, it all depends. I ride to the side, UNLESS, my personal safety dictate that I move over. When I say "the side" I'm talking about the 1.5meters nearest the edge of the road. I have no problem behaving as though I own that 5 feet. Then, if there's some extenuating circumstance that would make it unwise to allow traffic to pass, I'll move further into the lane. Usually for short periods of time. Always in a deliberate and predictable way. Usually, motorist understand why. Very rarely do I hear anything out of them.

Yep, keep encouraging your brother to ride safely. With regard to ride lengths, if a century is you goal, pick one that is at least 14 weeks away. Committ to that and then we'll have some really basic training plans that will see you complete that goal.