I live where it is pretty hilly, and I shift often. Getting good at timing when to shift to match the terrain is an important technique to master. Generally you should shift down before your cadence drops then let the higher cadence spin down, instead of letting the cadence drop, then down shifting and trying to spin back up. This involves watching the terrain and anticipating, rather than reacting to it.

Make Issac Newton your friend, not you enemy. I often ride riverside bike trails, which around here have an average grade of less than 1% (that means a rise/drop of less than 1 foot for every 100 ft ridden). An exception is where are dips where the trails pass under streets. These can be 10 to 25 feet deep. For a clyde, powering down the slope gives enough inertia that you can come out the other side still moving pretty well. I see a lot of young 25 BMI guys coasting down, then cruising up the back side. We clydes need to use the gravity to our advantage more than they do.