Picked up a nice few tips from this thread, adding one didn't see but often recommended elsewhere:

Might I suggest to thread starter to compile these in the first post, maybe one line per item? Condensed version will be a nice clean 100+ line list.

- a drop or two of superglue smeared onto the end of a cable will keep it from fraying, also better than the little aluminum nipple because you can pass the cable easily back out of holes and the cable housing.

- full lengths of cable housing are much more contamination resistant, especially below bottom bracket runs, than raw cables. Doing top routing with cables is much better for touring for avoiding mud/water/etc. You dont need new brazeons for these. Just use velcro strips to hold them in place or gently snug cable ties. Think of gravity's role in water collecting when routing cable housing when fully lengthed.

- debranding / uglifying your expensive, well known bike-brands may make you less likely than your neighbor to be nicked. Electrical tape especially on a black frame both does this, preserves frame decals, and adds a bit more abrasion resistance for you. Black is an ideal frame color if your considering for this reason.

- aquarium / misc. clear tubing over rack tubing can help take up that extra gap on your ortlieb or vaude big hooks, also reduces noise. Slit in half to get over the tubing. There are a ton of different diameters for this. This can help you have a common rack outter diameter among all your fleet's racks.

- for those that have front racks with the side link member (eg, tubus tara), you have considered what will happen the day when you go over bars? Will the rack survive? Nice argument both for racks that are independent and have little forward footprint, also for considering forks that allow same.

- solder a proper pair of wires to your front dynamo spade connectors, then link a disconnect (rcm dean's connector)to this ~5cm up the fork. The tiny and irritating spade connectors from Shimano/Sturmey/SON aren't a necessity.

- have read a temporary frame lock with someone undoing chain quick disconnect and rerouting it through frame.

- dab a bit of grease in your exposed allen bolt head to help with rust prevention, especially those facing up. Put allen key in to spread to all internal surfaces of allen bolt head.

- those with SS couplers, use an innertube sleeve over them both for rust prevention and making frame less identifiable. Dont let water accumulate in the sleeve if possible!

- spokes/other long items in your seat tube (bagged), or if SS couplers, you may have two more exposed tubes. Also have read others stashing valuables there, eg, rolled bills for emergency cash.

- much easier to replace a spoke if you've used a plastic rim strip instead of the sticky tape, schwalbe/continental have high pressure plastic rim strips that are simple to temporarily uninstall.

- those needing the 2-3 mm longer non-drive side spokes can just use drive-side spokes plus a nipple whose threads start 2-3mm earlier (several do this). So only one size spoke needed per wheel. Although really like the z-bend idea posted earlier to avoid cassette removal in that case ! You've all seen the kevlar fiber-fix spoke I'm sure too.