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Old 06-10-12 | 09:07 PM
  #33  
Clem von Jones
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 660
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Originally Posted by ultraman6970
Ok...

Do this during the week, probably somebody has another solution but it is a thing of opinions and nobody is right all the time with this things ok?

Since you moved the saddle back I would lower the saddle no more than 5 mm and just see how it goes. The worse of a fitting is that you have to adjust the stuff again and again because in the shop everything always works and is in the road and riding over 30 mins to know if all is ok. Lower the saddle a tiny bit will shift some of the weight back and help the hands.
Good point. It's true that when you change saddle setback you also have to readjust saddle height. You have to devise a system to track and remember all these measurements of setback, saddle height, reach and bar drop. I use a huge 5' or 6' carpenter's level and metric tape measure and a plumb bob on a string. Got all these things at Harbor Freight for maybe 10 bucks.

This website has professional bike setups listed in detail including the rider's height and weight. It's a good source of information and is where I collected data for my own setup. Professional cyclists who spend hours every day riding can't afford to be uncomfortable or inefficient. Here's only one example. Scroll down to see the list. Sometimes they don't list all the measurements you need but you can search the site for riders of your own size and make comparisons. http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/articl...dogma-2-31745/

These professional cyclists weight less and are a lot stronger than I am so my setup has shorter reach and higher bars then their averaged set-ups. Maybe one inch less reach and a couple inches higher. My saddle setback is generous for comfort at the cost of some power. The particular bike linked above is an extremely aggressive position and not a professional average.

Last edited by Clem von Jones; 06-10-12 at 09:35 PM.
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