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Old 07-04-12 | 04:14 AM
  #26  
duropero
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Joined: Jun 2012
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From: Bratislava
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ
you may have FH-6207 hub
Its stamped on the hubshell, so it should be FH-6208 - at least the aluminium hubshel. Yes, maybe i would try to do magic with the spacers, first i must try it to run with chain and see how it works..

Originally Posted by Kimmo
Looking at that second pic, it looks like you have enough space between the last cog and the dropout.

Shifting to that cog will probably suck because of its longer teeth, though. If that bothers you, there's always my way...
That second pic is 5 HG new and one (UG old) to lock it.. - that compilation will fit, but no more cogs will fit there (as i describe why in prev. post..
And yes, i will probably later try to unmount that freewheel body and try to replyce it with some HG nut.. for now i am trying to solve it without unmounting that fw nut.

Originally Posted by Asi
So if you want a lockring like thing to screw on - get hold of a BB lockring - it works.
If you want the EXACT same threading, well part number 10 out of a particular bmx hub is with the EXACT same threading: http://www.paul-lange.de/fileadmin/p...FH/FH-MX66.PDF
Good solution, will try it out!

Originally Posted by Asi
To use your indexed 6speed shifter you would have to ensure the correct spacing. Now You have the 7speed spacing that is 5mm center to center (that is 5mm=thickness of the cog+a spacer). For 6speed you would need 5.3mm center to center - that means you would have to come up with a 0.3mm spacer to add to each existing spacer, or replace the space with one that is thicker by 0.3mm - you will reach just about right with the 5th cog, and then you will use the built in spacer of the threaded cog (putting it properly with the teeth side on the outside) You'll make a true 6speed spacing. As I said, now you have 7speed spacing with 6cogs.

Don't tighten that cassette too hard for now, as I can see you are missing the spokes and rim. So you'll have to take it off when you build the wheel.

For fiddling with spacing, always use calipers, and always measure cog+intended spacer because cogs are not always the same thickness and the spacing is about center-to-center not the spacer itself. If you cross thin with thick cogs then it's more fiddling, you have to measure with the caliper across or between 2 cogs and subtract or add half of each cog thickness (that you also measure).

And if I brought up the subject, your spacing is 7speed 5mm, EXCEPT for the last cog. The last cog is thicker. To make good use of a 7speed index shifter you would have to file down the spacer by required amount: measure across the last cog and 5th cog and note the distance(A). Measure thickness of the threaded cog (B), and the thickness of the 5th cog (C). Calculate A-B/2-C/2="something". this "something" needs to be 5mm, and I suspect you have about 5.1-5.2mm right now. Measure your spacer (D) and you need to make this spacer to be the required size: required actual spacer size= D - ("something" - 5mm). Grind until you reach the correct size.
Use calipers.
Uf, than finally ill go to heaven? ;D

I think i will instead of fiddling with spacers simply use friction shifter in this case.. so i have time to RIDE the bike And maybe later try to replace that fw nut (but there could be issue what DannoXYZ mentioned..
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ
Nope, unfortunately for you, the mid-'80s FH-6208 600EX 7-spd Uniglide hub is the last of the 2nd-generation screw-on freehub-bodies. It cannot take the 3rd-generation bolt-on bodies that uses the 10mm hollow bolt.
so i will probably dissasemble it and have a look on it..
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