Originally Posted by
Kayce
But if you are purchasing new there are much better options, for not much more money.
The felt tk3 is only $100 more, and comes with much nicer wheels, and a much nicer crankset. Those are the two key components when looking at a complete bike. But of course you know the "best" bike that does not fit is completly useless.
right now, I'm kinda looking at the specialized langster because, honestly, its cheap. I figure I'm a beginner and even if the wheels are 2g carbon disks, they are not going to make me pedal any faster. Which in the end, is what I need, lol. Bottom line is I'm looking for something I can grow into, knowing that its going to take me several years before I need lighter wheels or a stiffer crank, etc.
Originally Posted by
carleton
You are asking at least two questions:
- How important is frame geometry?
- Should I buy a complete bike or build one from the frame up?
yup, at least.
Originally Posted by
carleton
1) Geometry is *very* important. Geometry on track bikes can become very particular. But, until you know what the different angles mean and until you start specializing in some sort of riding style (endurance, sprint) then you'd probably be best served with an a basic, neutral frame geometry like the Bianchi Pista Concept, Felt TK2, or 2008 Fuji Track Pro. Those aren't the ONLY one's by far. They are just a few with which I am familiar. Actually, MOST track bikes are sort of neutral.
If we have "neutral" bikes, then we have to have bikes on each extreme. For example, compare the Cervelo T3 to the Dolan DF3 (I would mention the BT Stealth here, but BT won't publish the geo). The Cervelo is an endurance/pursuit bike and the DF3 is a sprint bike. Yes, they can be (and have been) used for the entire range of events. But, they were designed for what they were designed for.
Would you car to elaborate a little on this (for my own amusement)? I'm assuming these specialized frames move the rider into a specific position. Do they just manipulate small things (angles and bb height)? or they do really funky things with the tube lengths as well?
Originally Posted by
carleton
For the most part, when you buy the nicer components you are buying durability and reliability. They will work well and do so for a long time. I know one guy who has been racing the same campy cranks for over 20 years. I've heard similar stories about hubs, handlebars, etc.. A friend of mine races some handlebars that she got off of her dad's old bike.
On the other hand, LOTS of budget gear is really good. For example, Formula hubs are basic hubs, but are really strong and the bearings are replaceable...and they are A LOT easier to deal with than Dura Ace hubs which require constant checks to make sure that the bearing on the rear aren't being overtightened due to putting the wheel on/off the bike so often. I carry cone wrenches in my track sack.
As far as components go, I'd ask around and pay attention to what other people who have been around a while use.
Sounds like I can go rummaging though the bargain bin for things that dont move is what you are saying? Ha, I understand the durability and reliability as I have something like 8k miles on my bike that is mainly 105 and it has never missed a beat.