Originally Posted by
balindamood
Those photos make me feel like going to the dentist.
I'm certain a tooth brush will be a tool used in today's cleaning! Possibly a dental pick as well!
Nasty! Looks like it suffered from water penetration. Another reason why you shouldn't clean your bike with a hose.
Hard to say. It was sent to me from a customer in CA for service. He had just received it from a source in Europe, who had claimed it was basically brand new. It spun, but not with the smoothness of the other DuraAce freewheels I've serviced. It was very stiff.
I was not surprised by the internal condition, but truth be told, I've seen really abused and neglected Suntour Perfects look better on the inside. I wonder if this one was stored in a very damp seaside environment, and over the past 25-30 years it absorbed the moisture.
The teeth on the cogs did not look as if the freewheel had ever been used.
Originally Posted by
dddd
Experience talking here...
New ball bearings will help smooth out and restore tolerances of the rusted bearing assembly.
I highly advise using some removeable-grade LocTite on the cone ring threads, no matter what method and tools that you use for tightening it.
I've only had this issue once, and it was one of the first freewheels I serviced. It was for BF member Jim Mueller. When he emailed to say it had come loose, I remembered not using the hammer and punch to lock it into place. I directed Jim to do so, and the freewheel has worked perfectly since.
I've never noticed any Loctite residue on any of the freewheels I've opened so far. It certainly won't hurt when putting it back together. In fact, the Sante I failed at servicing for Michael Angelo, might work with Loctite on the threads. It's worth a try since it is such a nice freewheel in the first place. It's a shame it can't be used.