Old 08-07-12, 02:45 PM
  #13  
Mr. Beanz
Banned.
 
Mr. Beanz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Upland Ca
Posts: 19,895

Bikes: Lemond Chambery/Cannondale R-900/Trek 8000 MTB/Burley Duet tandem

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by sstorkel
That twang is a sign that the person who repaired your wheel didn't do it properly. You usually hear that sound when a wheel hasn't been properly stress-relieved.

If you don't want to do your own wheel maintenance, and I can certainly understand if you didn't, it wouldn't be a bad idea to find a shop with a more competent wheel builder. Wheel building is one of those things that's a bit of an art. Getting it right takes time and/or talent. If your shop mechanic doesn't build wheels on a regular basis, or if he's getting pressure from the boss to move through jobs quickly, your wheel might not have received the attention it needed...
+1...it's a shame that some shops have newbs true wheels. Seems easy enough but if they don;t do it right, the wheel willbe straight bu tthe spokes bind up causing the twang.

Binding, they turned the nipple and it twisted the spoke right along with it, now it's in a stressed postiton.

When I build my wheels or true, I place a black dot with a marker on the spokse so whenI turn the nipple, I cna be sure the spoke doesn't go along for th ride. Some use tape around spokes like flags to monitor. I just wipe the mark off with WD40, pretty easy.

There is a reason I won't allow any LBS to touch my wheels. Some of those free tuneups do more damage than good. WHne I do need to go to the shop, I make sure they understand that they are not to touch my wheels. I even have them write it on the work order
Mr. Beanz is offline