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Old 08-27-12 | 06:44 AM
  #7  
thebulls
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Joined: Dec 2003
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Bikes: SOMA Grand Randonneur, Gunnar Sport converted to 650B, Rivendell Rambouillet, '82 Trek 728, '84 Trek 610, '85 Trek 500, C'Dale F600, Burley Duet, Lotus Legend

Originally Posted by moleman76
Check out the Noodles. If they came in a 25.4 size, all my olde steel bikes would have them. (Don't want to get into a lot of stem replacements).

The Noodle (my view) doesn't rise up quite as much from the center, and while the drops spread away, they don't spread as wide. The slight bend-back in topview on the Noodles is very nice.
The Noodles also make my hands go numb, but not as bad as the randonneur bars.

I don't understand the whole notion of having either upswept or backswept bars. If you want to locate the bars in a given place, adjust stem height and length to do it. The problem with the rando bars is that the upswept portion between the stem and the forward-curve makes your hands tilt inwards instead of being flat. So it's uncomfortable to be on the tops of the bars which makes you have your hands on the curved part or on the hoods more. The curved part tends to make you bear weight on the bones running down the center of the palm of your hand near your wrist, which is where all the nerves run through. So the more time your hands spend there, the more numb they get. Also, the tighter the curve at that point, the more it tends to make you bear your weight on the bones near the nerves. And the rando bars and Noodles seem to have a tighter curve than the Maes-bend style Grand Cru Course. Track bars have an even more gentle curve, which would be an improvement, but the tops of the bars are less flat and the drop is too deep.

On the tops or on the drops, you can have your palm flat and bear the weight on the muscles on either side of the center of your palm. On the hoods, you can have your weight borne on the muscle between your thumb and first finger, also keeping away from the nerves.

Nick
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