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Old 09-09-12 | 12:49 PM
  #10  
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DannoXYZ
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,754
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From: Mesa, AZ

Bikes: Moots RCS, tandem, beach-cruiser, MTB, Specialized-Allez road-bike, custom track-bike

Originally Posted by jonainmi
It is not coming out, I have used the method of the bolt and nut with washers, and nothing. I am open for ideas here, I will give anything a shot
PB Blaster or Kroil are the only spray-on penetrating-oils that actually works. On one difficult seatpost, I had bent the seat-rails from trying to twist it out. Sprayed PB Blaster on it and left it overnight. By morning, it had loosened up the corrosion so much that the seatpost had slid down into the seat-tube all the way by itself!

As for the BB fixed-cup, Sheldon Brown's giant bolt & nut works great. Only change I would make is to place a star lockwasher on both sides of the cup. Improves grip significantly.

Most common problem is applying enough torque to the cup. Even with a stand, it's difficult to keep the frame from moving around. I find clamping the downtube as close to the BB as possible in V-blocks in a vise works really well. Then use an automotive 18" breaker-bar with 1/2" drive socket. Add a 4-foot extension-pipe to the handle (twice as long as the one I have shone below). This will easily let you generate 400-lb*ft torque.


I prefer using a 1000 lb*ft impact wrench because it will work every single time without having to worry about damaging the frame by yanking on it every which way. On one particularly difficult frame, it stripped the threads out of the BB-shell. The cup came right out with a shiny spiral of stripped threads on top! Should've set the wrench for 1/2-power, 500-lb*ft should do the trick.

http://www.mytoolstore.com/ir/2135qti.jpg

Last edited by DannoXYZ; 09-09-12 at 12:55 PM.
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