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Old 10-07-12 | 10:16 AM
  #66  
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CliftonGK1
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 11,373
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From: Columbus, OH

Bikes: '08 Surly Cross-Check, 2011 Redline Conquest Pro, 2012 Spesh FSR Comp EVO, 2015 Trek Domane 6.2 disc

I may have missed it in skimming the thread, but I didn't see anything in the process about actually cleaning the grit and grime from the chain before the re-waxing process. Just that the hot wax will melt the old stuff. Sure, it will... but all that does is briefly resuspend any particulate matter and allow it to penetrate the rollers while you create a dip bath of it for the rest of the chain. In a relatively clean environment, it could work. If your roads are really gross and parts pick up a lot of contamination, maybe not so much.

I'm curious as to why you clean and do this with a fresh new chain, though. Stock from the factory, chains are lubed with GLEITMO (or some other similar lube) which is designed specifically for the application. No need to clean and relube a new chain, just stick wtih the stock stuff until it needs a first scrub-down.

My personal choice in cleaners is mineral spirits because a gallon is $7 at the hardware store and I can recycle a jar of it for a few dozen cleanings by just letting it settle and then pouring off the clean part to re-use. I save the dirty bit for the neighbourhood 'household chemicals disposal day' and drop it off there for appropriate disposal. A single gallon lasted me for almost 3 years of cleaning 3 bikes worth of chains and parts.
For lubricants, I like Finish Line products for the commuter and my MTB. I've been using Finish Line Wet on my CX bike for soggy conditions, and plain old 3-in-1 oil for dry conditions. It's lightweight, runs smooth, and works well for everything from chains to freewheel pawls to cables. For about $3.00 a bottle, it's cheaper than Finish Line Dry, too.
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