Originally Posted by
CliftonGK1
I may have missed it in skimming the thread, but I didn't see anything in the process about actually cleaning the grit and grime from the chain before the re-waxing process. Just that the hot wax will melt the old stuff. Sure, it will... but all that does is briefly resuspend any particulate matter and allow it to penetrate the rollers while you create a dip bath of it for the rest of the chain. In a relatively clean environment, it could work. If your roads are really gross and parts pick up a lot of contamination, maybe not so much.
I'm curious as to why you clean and do this with a fresh new chain, though. Stock from the factory, chains are lubed with GLEITMO (or some other similar lube) which is designed specifically for the application. No need to clean and relube a new chain, just stick wtih the stock stuff until it needs a first scrub-down.
My personal choice in cleaners is mineral spirits because a gallon is $7 at the hardware store and I can recycle a jar of it for a few dozen cleanings by just letting it settle and then pouring off the clean part to re-use. I save the dirty bit for the neighbourhood 'household chemicals disposal day' and drop it off there for appropriate disposal. A single gallon lasted me for almost 3 years of cleaning 3 bikes worth of chains and parts.
For lubricants, I like Finish Line products for the commuter and my MTB. I've been using Finish Line Wet on my CX bike for soggy conditions, and plain old 3-in-1 oil for dry conditions. It's lightweight, runs smooth, and works well for everything from chains to freewheel pawls to cables. For about $3.00 a bottle, it's cheaper than Finish Line Dry, too.
Hot wax will act the same as mineral spirits. It will dissolve the old lubricant (wax, oil, bacon grease, etc.). The only difference is that the mineral spirits will evaporate after use. The wax will remain on the chain. The wax being used here seems to be canning wax which is a hard wax. Gleitmo is composed of something like petroleum jelly, which is actually a soft wax.
A major flaw with this technique is that it has
no water resistance. Water will get under the wax and has a stronger affinity for the metal then the wax does. You could make the hard canning wax more effective at resisting water by mixing in a soft wax and/or some oil. The wax would be more flexible and less likely to just break and flake off the chain. You could also add solvents to bring down the melting point and put it in bottles so that you could lubricant the chain when needed and/or avoid all the issues of dealing with molten wax. But, of course, someone has already done that.