Old 10-26-12 | 03:48 PM
  #35  
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mrrabbit
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: San Jose, California

Bikes: 2001 Tommasini Sintesi w/ Campagnolo Daytona 10 Speed

Originally Posted by DaveSSS
This makes no sense when some bars have 20-30mm more drop in the hooks than others. Even my shallow drop EC90-SLX3 bars require the end of the brake lever to be a little above the bottom of the bar. If the hooks were 20mm deeper, then the brake lever ends would be even higher, relative to the bottom of the bar. Regardless of the shape or depth of the hooks, when I'm descending a mountain, I keep my hands relatively high in the hook, with my index finger near the lower edge of a Campy brake hood. With short fingers, any other position makes the brake lever unreachable.

Most riders spend far more time with their hands on the brake hoods than anywhere else, so the brake hood angle and the transition onto the bar top are the most critical things to get right. That's the way I set mine and I've never had any problem with the position of the brake lever, relative to the hooks. I never give the brake lever end any consideration in the setup process.
Dave,

You are arguing as though providing a reference is a judgement that has to be defended, attacked, proven right, wrong, etc. Furthermore, you continue to attack people as though they are making absolutist statement about the wrong way and the right way.

A reference is a reference:

When I provide ERD's, I provide a reference. "The flat of a 12mm standard profile nipple."

I'm not defining ERD, I'm not stating a standard for aiming point, I'm not telling people the "right way".

I am merely providing a reference. When I tell folks, ERD for Open Pro = "603 ~ Flat of 12mm"

They can:

1. Use as-is because they are doing the same.
2. Or adjust up or down to suit the nipple type, size, and preferences they have.

Same goes for the table top reference for installing levers on bars:

1. Levers on tables for typical old school and classic levers and bars for a starting point.
2. Levers on 2-3cm blocking for modern day compact levers on anatomic bars.
3. Levers on 1-2cm block for classic levers on very deep drop classic bars.
4. Levers on any size block desired to place levers anywhere desired - but with even height. (As LarDasse74 stated clearly, people can put the goddamn levers wherever they want...)

It's just a reference that ensures even brake lever height. That's all it is...

Stop arguing...it's pointless.

=8-)
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Disclaimer:

1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:

Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
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