Old 10-28-12 | 04:40 PM
  #24  
xenologer
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Joined: Aug 2008
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Originally Posted by dabac
Yes.
That design, and appropriate torque, would lock the pedal to the crank solidly enough to prevent precession.



Well, if the average buyer thinks that the current solution is good enough(and let's face it, crank/pedal failures aren't that common), why would he spend money on a fix that won't improve his ride in any way?

"it's better, but in a way you'll most likely never benefit from" isn't gonna look particularly compelling in the catalogue.

It's like with spoke lengths and hubs. Most rear wheels will use a 2 mm longer spoke on the non-drive side, which could have easily been avoided by designing a hub flange that's 2 mm larger. I'd rather have a wheelset that only took one spoke length than a chamfered pedal spindle.
NOS 7spd freehub bodies transplanted to modern 135mm hub spacing FTW


regarding the pedal/crank redesign cost
what about cranks that used the same standard threading, but also had a split pedal eye and pinch bolt?
would the compression from that be enough to stop precession?
it would still accept normal pedals.......
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