The "traditional" anti-seize on nipples was raw linseed oil. It sort of sets when it dries out, but is easy to break with a nipple wrench. I have used it occasionally, but most of the wheels I have built haven't used any sort of spoke prep... or needed it.
I don't know who actually makes the Bontrager rims, but I have my suspicions they come from the same factory that makes Alex rims. And I won't touch them either.
A good quality build starts with good quality components. And a good number of spokes. Because my riding relies on reliability, the minimum spoke count I am comfortable with is 32. I do have a 24 spoke from wheel with a Shimano dynohub, but that was bought complete, and is intended for short-ride night training.
Usually, low-spoke wheels are promoted on the basis that they are lighter and slightly more aero, but in practice, they aren't much, if at all, lighter because the rim has to be heavier to compensate for the loss of strength the additional spokes provide. And aero only really comes into the equation above about 18mph.
There are two ways to check spoke tension. One is the "pluck" method that uses I think B-flat as the note. If the spokes on a wheel are plucked and sound the same, then you are on the right path.
The second method is to use a proprietory tension gauge which is produced by Park Tools. I think they go on eBay for around $100.
I've never bothered with the gauge, and have relied on the pluck method for all the wheels I have built.
There is a discussion in the touring forum about spokes:
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...uring-wheelset
and a change in DT Swiss' specs that may affect longevity. It may depend on how old the wheel and spokes are, but this might have an influence on the way some wheels go out of true.