Originally Posted by
MarkThailand
I am currently in discussions with Anderson, Independent Fabrication, and Waterford about a custom steel sport touring / club ride bike. This is to add to my current non-carbon stable. My Lynskey Helix OS is for crazy, club rides that take on various aspects of crits. I have done centuries on it as well but I feel that I have to be alert and ready for the whole ride because it has a more aggressive geometry. My Lynskey R330 is my general all-around bike for my weekend solo 60 mile training rides. Centuries on the R330 are more relaxing but slower than on the Helix OS because the geometry is probably more relaxed. This new bike is for century and double century club rides and being able to walk the next day.
Large companies try to specialize on uses, because they can sell you more styles, and they can't fit you personally. What I try to do is stick with the basics that I can build. I'm into getting the BS out of bikes, and getting a fit, and building use specific function (like carrying panniers on touring bikes). I don't provide an even more potent magic sauce, or more micro segmentation.
I am slowly climbing up the learning curve regarding the various kinds of steel tubing - Columbus XCr, Reynolds 953, KVA MS2, and Waterford S3 - and the challenges in working with them and the various properties of each tube set for various parts of the bike - the front triangle consisting of the head tube, down tube, and seat tube could be stiffer while the rear triangle consisting of the seat stay and chain stay can be vertically compliant and a bit more flexible for comfort.
In blind tests people can't tell the difference, or select the cheap stuff. If you are in the cohort that really counts the seconds, then you probably don't ride steel, but if you did, a slightly lighter frame might have some meaning.
Another recommendation is to use lugs instead of TIG wielding for better durability.
Lugs are a "look", anyone who says they are more durable is, to be kind, out of touch.