Originally Posted by
Alupang
I don't count the time it takes to melt the wax because I just throw it on the stove while I do other household chores (like sweeping, cooking diner etc.) as it's melting. So the time to melt the wax doesn't "count" to me. The pot I use is small not 4 lbs. It takes about 15 mins on medium heat to melt fully.
Yes sure squeezing a few drops of oil or commercially available wax based lubes like White Lightning are real easy and quick do do...until you get to part where you have to break and clean the chain and cassette and pulleys with smelly solvents to remove the nasty filthy black goo off everything. I don't like to break my chain--I use expensive Shimano break-off pins and do not trust master links.
I tried White Lightning years ago and went back to wax for 2 reasons: 1) wax is almost free (I'm still using the same pot for years now) and 2) my drivetrain is cleaner. I don't see any advantage in paying more for a messy drivetrain that requires breaking chain to clean.
That's my key point here--I don't want to break my chain until I replace it with a new one. My waxing method allows me to have a clean waxed drivetrain without ever breaking the chain.
I use White Lightning exclusively. I clean the chain
once when I install the chain. I don't have to 'break and clean the chain and cassette and pulleys with smelly solvents to remove the nasty filthy black goo off everything'...ever! The only time I take a chain off is to replace it or if I have to do something involving derailers.
Nor is my drivetrain dirty. That's the point of using a wax based lubricant. The wax doesn't attract any dirt because there is nothing for the dirt to adhere to. I use it for exactly the same as your method but it's easier to do because I can do it just before a ride, just after a ride, during a ride, on the road, in the backyard, etc. No oven needed.
And you really should try a master link. Far better than the break-off pins.