That's about where I'd have the starting position. Of course it's a personal preference.

Here's a thread on shortening the reach on Campy levers: http://forums.roadbikereview.com/cam...rs-248204.html

You can simulate what it'd be like for purposes of garage testing by putting a piece of rubber between the lever and housing to move the starting position closer, and adjusting the brake cable to set the working position. Obviously you want to make sure that the lever won't bottom out and contact the bar under normal braking, plus a small safety factor. For me if it doesn't bottom out on the bar when I squeeze really hard in the garage like I'd do to test a new brake cable install, it's enough. I do pay attention to my brakes and adjust them when they need it.

The other thing that helps some brake systems is reducing the brake spring force and friction. Shimano brakes have an adjustment for spring tension (two positons, it comes in the stiffer one). On my EE brakes I asked the manufacturer for the lighter springs he shipped with earlier models. They're more than stiff enough for cable return with the springs that are also in the Red levers and reduce lever effort. With that and some lever adjustments I got the brake effort light enough that I can do really long technical descents with one finger braking. I was having nerve problems in my left hand from using two fingers on long descents.