Originally Posted by
Sport10y
I've recently purchased a new TREK 520 (48/36/26 and 11/32) and prior to this purchase studied that many recommend the 26T chain ring be swapped for a 24T chain ring for climbing. My thought was that I would wait and see if I really needed the 24T or not and maybe those folks suggesting this are just outta shape.
First, it's best not to start a thread by insulting people. Maybe those of us with low gearing...24 teeth on the front isn't all that low...are just more experienced. When the road turns upward, trying to struggle along at 3 mph in a gear that you can barely turn over is a whole lot harder to do and harder on the rider then spinning up the same hill in a lower gear. You'll still get to the top and arrive in the same amount of time but one is going way is going to leave you breathless and the other is going to let the scenery take your breath away.
Originally Posted by
Sport10y
When I discussed this with my LBS, they were concerned about how well it would shift from a 24T ring to the middle ring, which is currently 36T and weren't too enthused about the idea. I will be taking a 600 mile trip this Spring that will be all mountainous through Appalachia. So, following my testing unloaded and seated, sure enough I must be outta shape, because it seems to me I will need just a smidgen lower gear than what the current 26T chain ring offers me loaded (unless I’m going to stand and push it all day. (at least this is my current hypothesis)). Based on what I’ve read this must be where this 24T ring comes in, correct? Can anyone give me a recommendation on what I need to do/buy/install or the most seamless way to get to where I need to be on this? Do I just change out that one chain ring or is this going to get more complicated and costly than that. Again, I’m trying to minimize my learning curve based upon your experience. Thanks again for all your help on this and other topics. Sport
Appalachia is going to teach you a whole lot about climbing and gearing. Be prepared. It will kick your butt, take your lunch money, kick you down the stairs, remove any organs that it sell on the black market and then turn around and stuff your hide to hang on it's wall. In 600 miles you will probably be going up more and down less than you'll do anywhere else in the US. It's incredibly odd how that area can have uphills that go on forever followed by downhills that are more up than down.
As to the ring, you crank can take a 22 (actually it can take a 20T ring which you can find on Fleabay). Shifting from the 36 to a 22 (or even a 20) isn't that difficult nor outside of the Deore front derailer's ability. I'm currently running a 20 tooth inner with a 34 tooth outer and shifting it with a Tiagra front derailer. I've never had a missed shift or thrown the chain off to the inside. It shifts up and down just fine. The Deore, coming from mountain biking, is even better optimized for the task.
Changing the ring is a piece of cake. With the Deore crank, you loosen the two fixing bolts on the left side, wiggle the left arm off and gently tap the right arm out. Now you can remove the ring bolts and swap the chainring. Reassembling the crank should be obvious. Tighten the fixing bolts to manufacturer specification. You may need to shorten the chain but I doubt it.