Originally Posted by
MadProphet
... I'd like the upgrades to be functional first. That's why I'm asking about what it takes to go from an 8speed to a 10speed.
Assuming it's all within the Shimano-compatible family: new chain, new rear shifter, new cassette.
Originally Posted by
MadProphet
.......Using higher end components. If it also looks better, so much the better.
But more speed gear wears decidedly faster. Sprockets are thinner, chain plates are slimmer. The jumps and clearances between gears are narrower. On my MTB it doesn't matter much, it doesn't log that much mileage, and mud, sticks and power shifts are the main reasons for wear anyhow. On my commuter, I'm quite pleased to stay in the 7-speed era. It can go a full winter, if not more, without needing any tuning. And that's at about 70 miles/week.
Originally Posted by
MadProphet
... I'm looking for functional increases - better shifting,
Well, OK, some of the rear derailers that has folded metal plates making up the parallellogram can be a bit sloppy, but the main contributor to precise shifting is adjustment, the condition of the cables, the cabling run and general lube and cleanliness.
Originally Posted by
MadProphet
... I'm looking for.... less jump between gear sizes. I'd love, in particular, to have a couple smaller jumps between 1st and 2nd and 3rd and 4th on my cassette.
....which you can get just as well from sticking an 8-speed "road" cassette in there.
Originally Posted by
MadProphet
... I spend a lot of time going uphill and spend a lot of my time on my small gear up front and the big ones out back.
Bicycling is basically more about endurance than strength, there's another post here about spinning and cadence. Don't fret about not muscling it up a hill. Keeping the revs up and the load down is safer for your knees anyway. And a tight stack cassette is nice for that.
Originally Posted by
MadProphet
....I'm new and not strong and going uphill in 3rd is a huge victory for me right now.
That's 3rd out back, right? On a triple front, consider the big ring front to be flat/downhill only - particulary as your bike is listed as having 700C wheels.
Thing is, upgradeitis can be real costly. Bike parts are a lot more expensive bought piecemeal than when bought as an assembled bike.
If you get into cycling seriously you''ll probably "outgrow" that bike pretty soon anyhow, in which case you're left with a blinged-out bike that's still a starter bike at heart.
Financially, and ultimately performance-wise, it's probably more sensible to make a "new bike jar", and set it at the kitchen counter. And whenever you get the urge to do something marginally functional to your bike, stuff money into the jar until the itch has passed.
But, it's your money. If you're fine with that, go ahead.
But my list would be: "road" tires, "road" cassette (maybe on a set of "road" wheels"), and a rigid fork. Or a nicer/lighter sus fork with lockout. Several Rockshox forks have adjustable travel, and your bike should be able to use an 80 mm travel fork w/o any drama.
A nicer fork, whether rigid or with a good lockout would do a lot more to your ride than a new derailer and more speeds.