Frank. I forgot about this yesterday, once I got into the shop. Sounds familiar?

I can grind a knife, at least an easy one (have not even tried a dagger), and it isn't that tough. The other day I was trying to grind some broadheads, and to my great surprise I did no get good results, so I made up a jig for that. Sometimes grinding needs a jig, and at other times fairly intricate results are possible freehand. In addition, a friend came by with a 6-pack and 18 broadheads he wanted ground, a jig started to make sense.

A basic thing with grinding, in my mind, is to learn how to float the tool on the wheel with little or not cutting taking place. So in the case of the Entek knife, imagine holding the completed rough ground blade on the spinning wheel but with very little cutting taking place. I call that floating.

So to grind a profile one needs to present the unground blade/part to the grinder in the exact same position as it will have when the grind is completed. a) grind in the finish position all the time, there isn't some initial position that is then converted to the final position (except that sometimes a sharp corner would rip off too much grit, so the first contact may need to be altered to blunt the workpiece.) b) initially grind just enough material to seat the workpiece on the wheel, then check to see that the workpiece is lined up. In the case of the tubes for bikes, one needs to center the tube, if the mitre is centered; ensure it is aligned to the clockface so 90 degrees or coplanar with the opposite end; and ground to a level depth on both sides. c) Once you have the piece floating on a cut that has the correct position, you can press it to near full depth. d) Then with one final check of everything, you get a small space to tweak it to perfection. This is easier than it sounds, with a little practice, and of course one way to go is to lay-out the mouth with a sharpie, so you can steer it right to that point. But I prefer to mark only depth, and depend on the approach suggested.