Originally Posted by
Skelleyfixie
Thanks for the breakdown! Very helpful.
I have taken my bike in to the local shop(s), one in Dallas then one here in Florida, the one in Dallas said it was the BB but the guy here told me the BB is fine and my problem lies with the crankset bc the connection b/n the arms and the chainring is loose
Ah, right. That is indeed the crankset, I was assuming you had a higher-end crankset that had the chainring bolted to the crank. Cheaper cranksets with the chainring(s) swaged onto them can indeed fail as you describe. If there's no play when you try and rock the crank arms left-to-right, it's not the BB. You should be able to see the play in the chainring/BB joint if that's where it is.
The two cranksets you linked to won't fail in the same way, as they appear to have what's known as a spider as part of the right-hand crank forging which the chainring bolts onto.
Dependingon where your wheel is in the dropouts/track ends on your frame now, you might be able to get away with switching from a 44-tooth to a 46-tooth chainring, or if not, you can replace the chainring with a 44-tooth one of the same bolt circle diameter.
Also, some cranksets have the spider swaged or pressed onto the right-hand crank, and the chainring(s) bolted to that. The swaged joint can still fail in the same way, but if you're lucky enough to have one of those, you may be able to reuse the chainring off your old crank.