Misconceptions abound...lol. Even among pro mechanics I have worked with. Best practice? narrow wood dowel and small ballpeen hammer. Actually hammer type isn't particularly relevant but a steel hammer is better than a rubber hammer. Why? I will give you an analogy. Don't try to pull the table cloth off of a table with dishes on top by going slow. Dull press is much more invasive than brisk, stacato force. A brisk tap with a hammer on wood dowel will easily and quickly dislodge bearings loctited into respective bores. Speed trumps force. Why a wood dowel? Wood won't scratch the bores are harm bearings if intent is to reuse them. The thing about BB30...unlike other BB's...you don't remove bearings until you replace them. Both sides of the bearings can be accessed on the bike with fresh grease. When the bearings are spent, knock them out. Very simple. In fact it doesn't get much easier.

Why do BB30's creak? Bad set up:
1. bearings aren't seated properly.
2. loctite isn't used...or bearing outer races were contaminated with grease...or bores were. At least use alcohol...adhesion promoter is better and generally spec'ed.
3. Biggest error? Crank axial preload is inadequate. Why does this matter? Because if the bearing inner race doesn't have a light preload, the bearing balls will rattle in races...and moreover bearings will tend to lose their seat over time with axial play.

Its all about attention to detail which takes very little efffort. BB30 is simple to set up and no reason the average guy can't service his own bike.