Old 02-01-13 | 10:46 AM
  #132  
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Campag4life
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Joined: May 2007
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Originally Posted by Sidney Porter
On an 8 speed I am shifting the front and rear deraileurs for the most part at the same time. It becomes a perdictable pattern. For example the bike in question has a 52/42 with an 11-28 (11,12,14,16,18,21,24,28)

Thinking in gear inches you can see the progress red indicates that it would be on the 52 while green is on the 42, black is a cross chain gear that should not be used.
39.6, 46.2, 49, 57.2, 61.6, 65.3, 69.2, 76.2, 79.1, 85.7, 92.3, 98, 100.7, 114.3, 124.3
The jumps are not bad where I would typically ride 57-85. The 2 cross chained gears cause a big jump. When you are in the middle of the cassette (57-98) the pattern is the same: when you move to the large chainring you also need to move up to one larger sproket, to go to the next gear you would move to the 42 and move the rear down 2 sprokets smaller, the next gear would be back to the 52 and move the next larger sproket. You reverse it going the other way.

Obviously this is harder than a 10 or 11 speed. But once you understand the concept and the pattern is is managable.

I think where people fail with 8 speeds is that the expect to be able to stay in the same chainring that makes the jumps ugly. Using my example
39.6, 46.2, 61.6, 69.2, 79.1, 92.3, 100.7
49, 57.2, 65.3, 76.2, 85.7, 98, 114.3, 124.3

I in no way need that 124.
Honestly, I believe what you write is common and better cyclists understand it intuitively. No doubt there are a lot of guys who don't understand gearing...and ride X-chained a lot...or understand the merit of double shifting. I do it frequently with 10 speed in fact...as in becoming poised for climbing a hill. Campy is particularly sweet for double shifting...only requires two simulaneous thumb pushes. This shifts big ring to small and depending on the magnitude of thumb push on the right side..you can dump 3 cogs which accounts for difference in front rings...basically matching gearing inches after shifting...and now poised to start climbing the hill in small small where you will stairstep up the cassette in back where you need more torque as speed slows and you get more into the climb.

What I thought you were speaking of...is gear inch matching betwee front and big rings. Typically this is done because there is a greater disparity in gear inches betwee larger cogs in back than smaller cogs which are spaced 1 tooth apart. Sometimes I will shift to my small ring in front and ride lower on the cassette to get just the inches and cadence I seek for a given effort.
Cheers.

Last edited by Campag4life; 02-01-13 at 10:52 AM.
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