Originally Posted by
dsaul
I would go with the 285 and 287. I have found that its better to round up and make sure you have complete engagement of all the threads inside the nipple for strength. It wont hurt anything to have 1mm or so sticking out the top of the nipple. You just don't want them so long that you run out of threads before you achieve the proper tension.
And if the threads run out before obtaining the desired tension, what then?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCXFKN9JvCQ
And of course, the assumption is that the ERD published for a given rim:
1. Actually aims for the screwdriver flat of the 12mm standard profile. (Not everyone uses the same reference.)
2. And is consistent rim-to-rim. (This is why us wheel builders always say, "It's best to measure your own ERD's.")
Just had a thread on this 4-5 days ago regarding Mavic Open Pros and Sun MTX-33s.
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...-ERD-s!!!-quot
=8-)
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5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
Last edited by mrrabbit; 02-23-13 at 11:32 AM.