The purple ones with the perforated spider are another set of the SL's. They're strong enough for a 170lb RACER as long as no one keeps tightening the spindle bolts, which is known to split the end of the crank. Same for the Kooka's, good enough for racing but too many people habitually tightened the spindle bolt instead of using LocTite during the initial torquing.
Toplines are cool! Good catch.
BTW, I used a 113mm JIS spindle with a 130mm spaced frame on the yellow bike, but set up my 130mm Canondale road bike with a 107mm bb. Both have good chainline, but the 'cross bike benefits from the added tire clearance.

There are different methods of "swaging" alloy or steel crank spiders. Some use a weld all the way around, while others press the spider or big chainring (integral spider) onto splines before swaging/peening the snout on the crankarm over the installed spider. The welding is/was used on steel cranks only as far as I know. I've ridden swaged cranks (both alloy and steel) very hard over many miles, but I weigh only 155. Swaging usually refers to a cold-working process, so wouldn't have been used on any Al-7000 alloy billet cranks like Toplines.