Originally Posted by
bigfred
??? Perception? Conception?
Manufacturers specs for a given rim are usually expressed as a range. Adhearance to the top or bottom of that range will in fact be determined by, rider weight, use, spoke type and location. In the case of heavy riders, greatest wheel longevity or durability can usually be achieved by using or even exceeding the top end of the recommended tension range. For instance, in order to maintain a durable rear wheel for my 115kg self, my drive side tension is approximately 110% of the manufacturers recommended max. Any less and I experience sufficient lateral flex to allow non-drive side nipples to back off.
Sorry but, optimum tension for a given rim does vary depending upon rider weight, use, spoke pattern, etc.
[h=3]mis·ap·pre·hen·sion[/h]
/ˌmisˌapriˈhenSHən/
A mistaken belief about or interpretation of something.
Synonyms
misunderstanding - misconception - mistake - error
Manufacturers commonly give a 10 KGF spoke tension range for their rims. That's as close as I can consistently read for every spoke on my TM-1. If you can't keep a wheel from flexing within the manufacturer's limits, you might try different wheel parts or different design. They limit spoke tension because their engineers feel that's the limit of their spoke bed, with of course some factor of safety. You exceed it at your own risk.
The OP's hub probably has ~25mm driveside flange spacing, which is very good compared to the usual ~16mm driveside road spacing for 130mm. IOW, this oughta work.