Two of my bikes have full fenders. I like the SKS P-series. I use the 35mm over three-season tires, and the 45mm over the studded snow tires. A full-fendered bike is a joy to ride, no matter what the conditions.

I recently had to replace a frame due to a cracked head tube. When building up the frame, I first installed the fork and headset, next the brakes (road calipers), then the fenders. This made a world of difference in the ease of installation.

I'm thinking that next time, I'll install the front fender on the fork before installing the fork in the frame.

In any event, without all the rest of the components in the way, access was easy.

Other tips:

Install everything loose. Don't tighten a thing until after you have the spacing and arc correct.

Use shims between the tire and the fender to get the fit and arc correct. I've used cardboard duct-taped to the wheel, a tube stretched around the tire and partially inflated, and a section of old tire. Each has advantages and disadvantages.

On the rear fender, don't be afraid to throw out the brake bridge mounting hardware. To get them tight through the brake, both for noise control and correct arc, I drill two tiny holes on each side of the fender and feed small (6") zip ties through and around the brake bridge.

When tightening after fitting, work from the middle to the ends. If you start at one end, you can throw off the other end.

When completed, the installation should not be in tension. Nothing should be pulling or pushing something else into place. Tension is what causes plastic fenders to break over time. They must be "relaxed", yet held in place by the stays.

Properly installed fenders will never rattle or squeak. Noise is a sign of improper installation.

I use a Dremel with a cut-off wheel to trim fender stays while they're still installed on the bike. I've tried the official "mark, remove, cut, reinstall" method and have always messed it up.

It's tricky doing it while they're still installed because you can heat the metal enough to melt the plastic. I hold the end of the stay with a pair of needle-nose pliers, then use a firm hand and assertive manner with the Dremel to cut through before the stay heats.