Originally Posted by
Andrew R Stewart
suggest that over size tube diameters be used. The biggest frames that I've been involved with have been over 70cm but with traditional diameters (although very thick walls). Both frames were pretty flexy for their riders. Andy.
Yeah, I was thinking about getting some type of butted tubing, but since the lengths will all be far longer than what performance butted tubes were intended for, I stuck with straight gauge, oversized diameter, .9mm tubes. I was thinking about it being overly "flexy" or "compliant" if I used thin walled or butted tubing.
Originally Posted by
unterhausen
I thought that your position was fairly extreme for most people. I think he's got a good plan. It's not going to be wobbly, those specs are well within the normal range of bike frames. Look up some of the frames built for basketball players, those can be extreme
Okay, that's good to hear. I guess I've just never had a frame that actually fit me in any respect, and feared it'd be weird just because the numbers aren't what I am used to seeing.
And I totally agree that the positioning on my current bike sucks, even when riding relaxed on the tops of the bars I feel like I'm in the drops. I had hoods on this bike for a little while and I loved how they felt in my hands, and the control they added, but it felt even lower than riding on the tops... If I had a foot long quill stem sticking out of the steerer tube with 250mm reach it might be okay, haha.
Originally Posted by
calstar
"I want some feedback from other builders who have maybe built for tall folks like myself"
Is there a personal preference for your frame being be a "traditional" frame design with horizontal tt? A sloping tt will give you a smaller main triangle. Extending the ht higher above the tt(1-2" or so, quite common these days on large frames)will also make the frame more compact.
Why the straight gauge? You didn't mention what tubing will be used other than the generic 4130. Using oversize tubing would help eliminate any "noodling" although a competent builder should be able to build one just as "stiff" using traditional size heavy wall tubes. I'm a really tall guy myself and currently ride a Curtlo with butted OXPlatinum tubing and it is worlds more responsive, compliant and lighter than my previous straight gauge frame(the difference is stark to say the least). I would definitely talk to your builder regarding this aspect of the frame. You'll have to take my word for it but getting an "all arounder" custom frame built(at considerbable expense) with straight gauge will be something you'll kick yourself for farther down the road(litteraly and figuratively).
I would also recommend at least 430mm cs. A 73 degree st is pretty typical for a "normal" size bike, and when you jack up the seat height you move the load center back, which is generally not a good thing, so why have a cs length that is used on smaller bikes. I know a guy, 6'9", that just had a custom frame built, not that much different from your geometry, and wished it had longer cs. Longer stays may make the bike slower handling(marginally/imperceptively for most) but you're not a racer and the benefits of longer cs outweigh that negative.
Please post what the planned tubing size and wall thickness is. And what is the wheelbase and front/center, if you know them (I know you builder does)?
What exactly do you mean by "I know a guy, 6'9", that just had a custom frame built, not that much different from your geometry, and wished it had longer cs. Longer stays may make the bike slower handling(marginally/imperceptively for most
) but you're not a racer and the benefits of longer cs outweigh that negative."?
Is "cs" seat stay or chain stay?
I was thinking about asking him to do a 450-470mm chainstay, if I read that right, you think that would be overall advantageous?
And are you saying a steeper or more "relaxed" seat tube works better on big frames.
He said there's a chance that it will have a sloping top tube, but if he can avoid it, he will. I prefer the look and ride (at least I think, but since I've never ridden a fitting frame I guess I don't know how they "should" ride) of traditional horizontal top tubes. I also prefer the frame to be as large as possible while still fitting and leaving room for adjustment.
Well I'll ask him the diameters of the seat, top, and down tubes. All I know as of now is that they are oversized diamter, .9mm straight gauge 4130.
I chose not to use butted tubing for a couple reasons:
-I don't care about added weight.
-I will be using this bike daily, and locking it to 15-20 poles/racks per day (I work from my bike) and don't want to risk denting thinner tubes.
-I fear using thinner gauge tubing will feel "flexier" or too "compliant" compared to what I am used to since they are such long tubes.
Thanks again everybody, I really appreciate the input.