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Old 03-24-13 | 08:51 AM
  #18  
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tsl
Plays in traffic
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 6,971
Likes: 15
From: Rochester, NY

Bikes: 1996 Litespeed Classic, 2006 Trek Portland, 2013 Ribble Winter/Audax, 2016 Giant Talon 4

I wouldn't use anything but drop bars. Especially in the springtime winds here along the Great Lakes. (Not to mention the gales of November.)

My definition of "commuter bike" begins with the words, "drop bar road frame".

Still, as AlmostTrick said, it doesn't matter what works or doesn't work for me, or what works or doesn't work for anyone else. All that matters is what works for you.

After using regular bars, I tried a bike with drop bars and found that I like them a lot. If you try them you may find the same, or you may find you don't like them at all, or you may like them some of the time. But you won't know until you try them.

It's important that their height and reach are appropriate to your flexibility and measurements. Too high, and you'll wonder why bother. Too low and you'll wonder if contortionists ride bikes. Too close and you'll feel cramped and become unstable. Too far and you'll tire quickly. When moving down, remember to rotate from the pelvis, don't bend and hunch up your spine. You may need to shift back on the saddle slightly as well, since rotating forward moves you closer to the bars.

What I've found works best for me is having the hoods and the drops positioned so my shoulder and upper arm are at about 90°. I can ride for miles and miles in either position without undue fatigue, despite my arthritic back and hands.

Last edited by tsl; 03-24-13 at 08:57 AM.
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