View Single Post
Old 03-24-13 | 03:18 PM
  #7  
FBinNY
Senior Member
Titanium Club Membership
15 Anniversary
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Often, you can remove the one screw then rotate the entire cleat, which may help take the screw with it. Other wise grind or cut the cleat to where you can break it out from under the bolt, which does to things. It gives access to the head so you can use a pair of pliers, and takes the tension off the screw, which by itself is often enough.

Obviously this sacrifices the cleat, but if you don't need to replace it anyway, you might as well leave it alone until you do.

Cleat screws tend to be good candidates for binding, because they see all kinds of weather from the bottom, and are vulnerable to your own sweat wicking in from the top. I always mount cleats using a good, waterproof MoS2 grease, and so far have done OK. (of course that could just be good luck, and not the grease).
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Reply