I'm not stating categorically that using wedges or a similar method to pry the crank loose from the BB will damage the ball bearings and/or races, only that they weren't designed or intended for the function of resisting significant stationary impact loads. Axial loads while rotating, yes, of course, drill presses included.
When you use a product in a way for which it was not designed or intended, you take your own risk of damaging it. You all know that. I'm just pointing out what I believe bottom brackets were not designed for.
My understanding of the Jacobs chuck wedges is that the preferred method is to use a C-clamp to squeeze them together around the drill shaft (rather than hammering). That's probably good advice if you're going to use them to remove a crankarm also. Assuming you have a C-clamp that's stout enough. If your C-clamp can't take it, maybe it's time to consider using the proper puller instead. An appropriately sized two- or three-jaw puller might work for the NDS, but that's probably a tough one for the drive side.