Good to know. Didn't occur to me that the tube thickness would be different.

I really do prefer the looks of a threaded headset/stem to that of threadless, especially with a lugged steel frame, so I'd like to keep it that way (though the ease of changing stems with the removable faceplate is a nice benefit of the threadless stems).

This whole replacement fork business is starting to look like it's more trouble than it'd be worth. I'd originally come to that conclusion, but then the price for the frame dropped and I thought it might be a workable solution again, but now I'm starting to lean back towards looking for a complete frame/fork combo as a better solution than trying to piece this together.

A lot of the replacement forks I've seen that are long enough (say 240-250 mm) have 80-100 mm of threads. I think I've seen where this might be a problem because if I don't cut the steerer (and I probably wouldn't, at least not much because the head tube is so long), the expansion bolt of my stem would be in the threaded region which might not be strong enough. Is that correct?

Also, if I end up with a stem that's say 5 mm too long, can I just put a couple extra 1" washers or spacers from a 1"threadless setup on between the threaded top race and the lock nut instead of cutting the steerer? I don't like to do things that are irreversible like cutting when there's another reasonable option.