Old 06-05-13 | 11:55 AM
  #7  
stephr1
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 355
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From: Silicon Valley, CA (Yes, that one :)
Alan,

Nice to hear from you....how's things in CO these days? We're having great riding weather out here in the Bay Area Mid-70s (up to low 80s by this weekend).

Thanks for chiming in. After I "solved" the problem of an "incompatible" cassette a few months back, the bike has been running flawlessly....until about 2-3 weeks ago. Then I noticed some top/7th cog chain-skipping had returned. I did a readjust and the problem seems to have disappeared (for now). That was when I noticed the H adj screw had shifted off the original setting. I also noticed that when the RD is not on the top or bottom cog, the H or L screw feels like it unscrews fairly easily (almost no friction/drag on the adj screw). While I agree this normally shouldn't happen (maybe because of my bike's age), it seems in my case it has I added some threadlock this morning and hope that will take care of it...I'll know for sure tomorrow morning.

As for doing the adjusting, I do use the Shimano adj info only as a starting point. Then I do go more by feel and sound to get things more fine tuned....

Cheers....Steph

Originally Posted by oldskoolwrench
Hey, steph

Actually, I wouldn't worry about the limit screws backing themselves out; they typically don't exhibit that trait. As cny and dsbrantjr have said, it's more about functionality than exact dimensions. Personally, I tend to look at the outer DR cage and use the sound of the chain on the pulleys more than anything when adjusting a rear DR... sound will tell you quite a bit!

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