Old 06-06-13 | 09:04 AM
  #5  
pacificcyclist
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 920
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From: Canada

Bikes: 2012 Masi Speciale CX : 2013 Ghost 29er EBS

Originally Posted by badger_biker
I just want to share my experience about how important the bike and racks combination can be and possibly to help others who may not be happy with the handling or ride their current set up has.

I have a 1984 Specialized Expedition touring bike that I built up from the frame about 20 years ago and have previous posts regarding experiences I've had with some nasty shimmy when loaded down that I couldn't resolve. I initially had a Blackburn Expedition rear rack and Blackburn Custom Lowriders on the front that do not have a cross loop connecting them. I tried all load and weight combinations and still had a very scary frequently oscillating ride. I then went to a Jandd Extreme front rack so I could add more weight up front which seemed to lessen the shimmy. That had tolerable results but I could still get the bike to start wagging without out much help.

I checked all other possible contributors to the shake and swapped wheels, replaced the headset with a Stronglight A9, and had my alignment checked and fork tweaked. None had any real affect and I bought an old Schwinn Voyageur to do my touring on. I was about to strip the Expedition for parts I wanted to keep and sell it when I decided I would give it one more chance. I put a Tubus Tara front lowrider rack with the hoop and a Topeak Tourist DX rack in the back that has a more vertical rear stay to help keep the panniers from flopping.

To my amazement I loaded it up like I had in the past and magically it now tracks like a dream and I can even ride if for some time with no hands. I even added a handlebar bag which previously was the kiss of death and it still rides like the highly regarded vintage touring machine it had been touted to be. I can't even get it to wobble when I try now.

Anyway I just thought I would post this just in case it helps someone trying to work out the bugs in their tourer.
Most people don't realize that not all racks are built alike and they think that a $20 or $40 rack perform the same as a $100 or $200 rack. This isn't so, because what's important is the dynamic side loading characteristics of the rack itself that is the most important aspect of the rack on the bike. It can be a difference between fish tailing and being ridden straight as an arrow.
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