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Old 07-09-13, 11:04 PM
  #39  
bigfred 
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: NZ
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Bikes: More than 1, but, less than S-1

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I have to agree with what Beanz and a few others have stated.

The shop the bike came from don't know what they're talking about. Spokes that are undertensioned or unevenly tensioned will typically break at the J-bend (elbow) on the drive side or the nipple will back off on the non-drive side. Even tension is probably more important than maximum tension. But, for clydes and especially super clydes both are important.

You need to find the best "wheelsmith" in your area. What you need are the drive side spokes of the rear wheel tensioned to the upper limit of what the rim is rated to and tension balanced to within +/- 5% of the average (the industry standard on a machine built wheel is +/- 20%). The average tension of the drive side spokes will probably end up in the 120-130kgf range. The non-drive side will be whatever is necessary to properly dish the wheel. If this guy is reasonably decent he'll set the spoke heads. And, to achieve the +/- 5% he's going to be tension relieving the wheels, retruing and retensioning repeatedly, until doing so no longer effects true or tension (less than an hours work, probably a half if the wheel is already true and reasonably tensioned). Get this done before you start riding that new wheel and take the front along for a check and tension as well.

Your tires should be fine. 32 spoke wheels might not be ideal. But, with good, even tension they should be fine on reasonable roads and paths.

Don't feel bad about this stuff. It's not just you. I've been riding as a clyde for 30 years and when I've moved cities in the past I end up going from one LBS to another until the techs quite telling me that what I'm asking for is unneccessary, or overkill, or .........

Currently in a city of 1.4 million, when the one guy I would trust with me wheels went out of business, I tried and gave up on 3 different high end shops(none of whom could provide me with a wheel that would last more than 3 rides before going out of true or breaking a spoke) before starting to build my own.

Light guys simply dismiss some of what us clydes know to work as being the aforementioned unneccessary.

Now, go find your wheelsmith. You're a cyclist who knows what he wants and expects. As soon as a wrench starts to tell you otherwise, turn around and walk out the door.
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