First of all, remove the stop clip on the threaded end and see if you can back the handle out and still have enough thread engagement to do the job. Ideally you'll want about 3/4" of engaged threads to reach full strength.


If you can't use it as a press, you can take it apart and use just the shaft and sliding cones as a guide, and use a hammer and a short piece of pipe to do the actual pressing. If you use it that way, it might be better to have the better fitting sleeve be the moving one, and the sloppier one (if there is one) as the bottom, static guide.

As for the bearings, AS gave you good advice, or you can think about it this way. The retainer's rib can only go one of two places. Tucked away near the top (narrow end) of the cone, or out beyond the base of the cone. That allows the balls to ride the middle of the cone and cup. If you drop it onto the cone it'll become obvious. Is still not sure put the cone and cup together with the bearing in your hand, press and rotate, and you'll either hear/feel scratching, or you won't.

As said, you might have a fit at the low end of the tolerance range, but as long as it's tight you're OK. Make a mental note, that if you feel or hear movement when using the front brake, and you've adjusted the headset, it might be the cone. That's when you can pull it off and use the center punch to build up the seat diameter. I've also had good results using a thin coat of paint or nail polish. Sometimes I do both, raising the dimples with the punch, then painting and pressing into semi-dry paint which when dry makes a solid filler. This is a bridge you'll cross if and when you get to it.