Old 08-04-13 | 02:12 PM
  #6  
FBinNY
Senior Member
Titanium Club Membership
15 Anniversary
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Originally Posted by Hopping_Rocks
The lock ring still has the flats. I tried using a pipe wrench but the lock ring is so thin that the wrench can't get a very good grip on it. I tried using a vise, but when I push/pull on the crank arms all that I end up accomplishing is getting the crank to pop out of the vise.

How would I go about using a hammer and flat punch? Is the lock ring right or left-hand threaded? (can't remember right now)
If memory serves, it has a RH thread, but you can confirm just by looking at the exposed threads beyond the ring. If the lock ring is hex shaped, the best option is to trap an open end wrench against it with a stack of spacers (cut lengths of plastic pipe, or bicycle headset spacers, and the left hand cone, then turn. If it's a round, notched ring, set the chisel in a notch and drive it with a hammer. Note the chisel should have a dull 90° point so it drives, but doesn't cut the ring.

If it's hex, and you want to use the vise, set the crank as close to across the jaws as possible (dictated by the nut) and turn using both arms so there's less tendency to cam out of the vise. An long cheater bar slipped over the crank arm, increases the ratio of torque to linear force, reducing the tendency to hop put of the vice.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Reply