Originally Posted by
Cynikal
Hey, that looks familiar! It turned out great Neil! This is Chris from Tim's class.
I'm still doing some finish work on mine. Need to fill a couple of spots that got missed in the rush of the final day. Should get the tanks filled this week and then back at it.
Ksisler, we only tacked in the jig and used bike stands for everything else. The lugs we used wouldn't allow use to leave the tube at full length. There was a shoulder inside the lug that stopped the tube.
Cynikal; Apologies for being off-line for a while. I would like to add my +10's for all those that replied to "get rid of that interior sleeve" on those seat lug. Yep, they save a few dollars for the volume factories but don't contribute to other builder's success as far as I can discern (others may have better insight). As I tend to mostly using brass rather than silver, when I have had to use those type of lugs (such as a xlarge frame that required me to leverage that extra few cm's of ST length), I just turned the frame upside down and ran the brass in from the bottom to get an adequate fill. With that, the work needed to ream out of the seat tube is greater that for a regular lug, but tolerable.
Re my original post regarding more cramped jig space for the tubes. I have always left the seat tube full length, valuing the extra tube as a way to gain more accuracy during the build and when checking the frame for alignment afterward. Also tend to longer head tube stock for the same reason. As I most often build on a flat table, the extra tube lengths at those two locations give me spots further away to put my v-blocks (spacer for the tubes away from the table top) and thus providing better alignment.
/K