Old 08-28-13, 08:59 AM
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stevehenders
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Princeton, NJ
Posts: 4

Bikes: 2008 Trek 7.5x

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Converted from flat to drop bars on trek 7.5

I've seen a lot of discussion on converting from flat to drop bars for "Hybrid" or "Fitness" bicycles. I'd though I would share my experience. I have ridden my Trek 7.5 FX for about 5 years. I've put a few thousand miles on it including some fairly long (600 mile) loaded touring. I was mostly very happy and comfortable but I wanted more hand positions - including a more aerodynamic one. I researched a few options and decided to convert to drop bars.

I considered buying a second bike (cyclocross or road), but the ones I looked at (mostly Cyclocross bikes) had pretty much the same geometry as my Trek. I also figured I could go back to flat bars if it was really not working out - and not spend $1200+ on a bike.

My research turned up one big issue. Although I have Tiagra 9 Spd derailleurs, I couldn't use the Tiagra STI levers since they are not compatible with the V-Brake found on my bike (and many other hybrids). I looked around and found a few options, including the "Travel Agent" to increase the cable travel and still use the STI's with the V-Brake. That seemed kind of kludgy to me. I found some drop levers that would work with my V-Brake, then I needed some 9 spd SIS shifters.

Here's what I did:

I bought Nitto Randonneur (45 cm) bars for $50. I liked the upward slope and the wider drops.
I bought Cane Creek V Drop Levers for $50.
I bought Shimano Dura-Ace 9 spd Double/Triple Bar End shifter for $90.
I bought new brake cables and 8 feet of cable housing from my LBS for $20.
I bought some new bar tape for $20.

Total cost was $240. It took only a few hours and I was out riding. I needed only two hex wrenches, diagonal cutters, a flat screwdriver, pliers, white grease, and some tape (I used clear hockey tape rather than electric - it was handy).

The brake levers were easy to install on the bars and cabling was easy. I re-used the V-Brake "noodle" on my brakes, but replaced all other housing. The shifters were also pretty straightforward. I was surprised how easy it was to run the cable and housing from shifters to derailleurs. The Dura-Ace works great with the Tiagra rear and delivers a nice "chunk" feel as it shifts. Very different than my flat bar thumb shifters. The front shifter is a friction setup and works on my triple crank very well. I had to decide how to run the shifter cable housing up the bars and exit the bar tape. I decided to exit the cable and housing about half-way up between bar end and brake hood. This was just a matter of trying a few taping options.

Overall I am very happy. I am quite comfortable on the bike in several positions; in the drops, on the hoods, on the flats. I left my current stem for now, but might swap it out as I ride more and need to make some adjustments based on new riding position. I also swapped my 700X32 tires for some 700X28 and now I can keep up with some of my road bike friends
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